Maybe the writer was using Old School nomenclature. mF was how we old guys
wrote "microfarad" in the days of olde. It's been changed to uF.

If he meant millifarads, a seldom-used unit,* then yeah, 10mF would work,
but that's normally written 10,000uF.

Either way, you'll want an aluminum electrolytic or a tantalum 'cause a
10uF film cap, even in the lowest voltage (63v typ.) would be fairly large.

=========
* Which isn't to say that I don't frequently use "nanofarad" to fit
between micro and pico.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
84 Westfalia: Mellow Yellow ("The Electrical Banana")
74 Westrailia: (Ladybug Trailer company, San Juan Capistrano, Calif.)
Bend, OR
KG6RCR

On 9/28/2009 6:36 PM Mike S wrote:

> At 07:10 PM 9/28/2009, David Beierl wrote...
>> Gentlemen, we're mixing two subjects.  The 22uF is to damp the output
>> of the AFM.
>>
>> The cap for the temp gauge is smaller, I'm sure.  I rather suspect
>> 10uF, but I'll have to look inside one to be sure.
>
> This says 10 mF :
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=168239 That pretty
> much implies the need for an electrolytic.
>
> My understanding is that the constant blinking is caused by a leaky
> cap. It is probably just there as part of an RC circuit so the LED
> blinks for a bit at power-on. Perhaps simply removing the old cap will
> allow proper operation, except for that power-on indication.
>