| Subject: | Re: "Axle" wheel nut removal...the rest of the story. |
| From: | jon <jon@KENNEKE.COM> |
| Date: | Sun, 15 Feb 2009 18:17:12 -0800 |
Being the stbborn folks that I am, I was determined to get the brake drum
off without removing the axle nut.
What finally worked was 10 minutes with a propane torch, and prying the
drum. I could see it getting looser, and it finally popped off.
If you have a MAPP gas, or better yet, an oxy/acetylene torch, that would
be much faster. If using an oxt/ac. make sure you don't burn/melt
anything!
The only hitch in the process (beside the stuck drum) was on the front
passenger side caliper. I could not get the piston back into the caliper.
So, I had to remove the caliper and use clamps to get it back in. That
meant I had to bleed the system.
I was able to replace the pads/shoes on all four wheels with only one
"special" tool, and that was the one-man brake bleeding do-dad. I used to
use the mity-vac tool where I used a little bottle, and pulled a vaccum.
The one-way valve tool is MUCH better. You can buy four of the $6.00
tools, and bleed all of the brakes at once. I just needed to pump the
brakes, and keep adding fluid. Quite easy in a Vanagon, since the master
cylinder is right in front of you.
Not that I needed to remove the axle nuts, but the best method I've heard
(among many) is the use a 3/4" drive breaker bar and the 46mm (or 1
13/16") socket. With the wheels still attached, simply drive forward (or
back) with the bar on the ground. Let the engine do the work, not you!
Jon